When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.
“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.
A passionate golfer and journalist with over a decade of experience covering PGA tours and equipment innovations.